New York state. Vermont. Massachusetts. Connecticut. New England has been good to me.
Day 17 – July 26
Jeff had invited me out to breakfast the night before and if there’s one thing Jeff and I never skip before parting ways: it’s breakfast. Well, at least the last couple of times, but I’m enjoying the idea of this being our tradition.
We headed on down to a small local joint where the coffee tasted better-than-average, at least for a diner. Combined with a strawberry covered waffle, I was pleased. Afterwards, Jeff took me on a short tour of downtown Plattsburgh. The town has an important place in American history, as it became something of a blockade point that helped turn the tide in the War of 1812. You know, the war where the British invaded and burned down the White House. Yes, that war we never discuss.
In September 1814, Thomas MacDonough and his men aboard the ships Ticonderoga, Saratoga, Eagle, and Preble defeated the British in a splendid naval victory in the Battle of Lake Champlain. Had this been a defeat, the British would have seized a larger portion of our young nation. The town unveiled a 135-foot tall monument to this victory in 1926. Rumor has it that if a virgin graduates from a local academic institution, that the eagle on top will fly away.
We also took a quick look inside city hall, which was designed by the same man who designed not only the monument across the street, but also the National Archives and Jefferson Memorial in Washington, D.C.: John Russell Pope. Inside were fascinating naval artifacts and a great painting series detailing the history of Plattsburgh from a native legend about the defeat of a two headed snake to our less horrifying (maybe) modern era.
Jeff also took me to some of the fantastic new street art that has begun popping up downtown as part of an effort to revitalize it. I really dug the cute forest critter mural, but the Mountain Lake Mandala truly stole the show.
Before I knew it, it was time to depart and say ‘farewell’ to my dear friends. I made way for Vermont and within thirty minutes was on a ferry crossing Lake Champlain via ferry.
I cannot remember the last time I rode a ferry. It certainly hasn’t been with any of my own vehicles, that’s for sure. I know I was more excited about it than most, but, come on, it’s a boat that moves our cars. Who doesn’t love getting out and enjoying the majestic view saddled between New York and Vermont? I couldn’t get Gerry & The Pacemakers’ “Ferry ‘Cross The Mersey” out of my head during the ride nor for the hours that came afterward.
Bidding farewell to the amazingly kind staff at the ferry, I fueled up the car and ventured into Vermont for the very first time. Vermont is gorgeous. The drivers weren’t rude. Everyone I ran into was polite and caring; they wanted to know that you were enjoying your visit in their fine state. Or they just wanted my money. Whatever the reason, I was pleased to be there.
The state quickly passed me by, so right before leaving, I stopped off in Brattleboro for a bite to eat and a quick walk around town. I honestly would not have stopped here if my friends Brian and Em back in Oregon had not told me about their former stomping grounds. After getting a little lost and hangry, I pulled over to the first promising place I came across: Kipling’s Pub. It’s a quaint place with a great wood bar that seems to cater mostly to locals, which I can certainly get behind. I ordered a patty melt since I had not had one all trip (they used to be my roadside diner go-to item) and, y’all, this is one of the best I’ve ever had. Sure, it wasn’t on rye, but I didn’t care. It was more than I ever could have asked for. I inhaled the sucker. I’m sure there are better places to eat in town, but I don’t care. I highly recommend dropping in for a bite to eat. Feel free to ask the staff about the town and other points of interest; they’re incredibly kind and helpful.
Once back to my car, I ventured south once more. Vermont made way for Massachusetts which made way for Connecticut, where the drivers are…rude might not be the right word. Eternally in a hurry? They’re all commuters so their time is valuable and they let you know it. The roads were winding, small, and, because of my highway companions, a tad bit nerve-wracking. Finally, I arrived in Stamford, happy to be off the road and glad to see my aunt, Sandra, and uncle, Bao.
After freshening up, we drove to downtown Stamford and dined at Olio, a phenomenal little restaurant serving up Modern American dishes, mostly specializing in seafood. I had a great grilled salmon served up with all manner of vegetables (the broccolini and mushrooms were the standout performances). What a day for meals. I was happy, full, and verging on sleepy; thank goodness my uncle had driven us.
When we got back, Bao and I sat down with some cognac to watch the end of the night’s DNC speeches, arriving just in time to see Bill Clinton speak.
A long day was in the books and I quickly fell asleep.
Day 17 Stats:
Miles traveled: — 340 miles
Miles traveled so far: 4,121
States visited:
- New York
- Vermont
- Massachusetts
- Connecticut
Day 18 – July 27
Not to be obsessed with “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” on this trip, but remember how Ferris spoke of Cameron’s parents’ house? “The place is like a museum. It’s very beautiful and very cold, and you’re not allowed to touch anything.” I don’t think it’s too cold, but my aunt and uncle’s place certainly feels like a museum. Bao does some painting and there’s art, books, and trinkets from around the world. I felt oddly at home there.
Another perk: their couches are beyond comfortable, so when I decided to stay in and blog, I knew I had made the right decision. To aid my immersion into Connecticut culture, I caught a few episodes of “Gilmore Girls” (set in the same state, for the uninitiated). I was a happy camper.
My aunt was waiting for her car to be done in the shop, so we headed into downtown Stamford for some lunch. While we starting looking for a sushi place she recommended the night before, but we did come across Chez Vous Bistro and, bingo, we hit treasure. We shared a small plate of ratatouille and a French celery root slaw with a lemon remoulade. For our mains, my aunt chose an amazing leek and goat cheese tart while I had an amazing l’assiette campagnarde (charcuterie and cheeses).
Not long after our delightful luncheon, we received word that my aunt’s car was ready. I dropped her off and headed south towards NYC.
Actually I was heading for West New York (which is in New Jersey…nice try, y’all) to stay with my undergrad comrade Brandyn, but oh-ho, Google Maps (AKA “Karen”) decided to take me into Manhattan at rush hour. Good times, for sure. So, instead of daring to take the Lincoln Tunnel (oh HELL naw), I realized that I was nearing my friend Andrew’s place in Harlem and decided to try and find a parking spot nearby. Lo and behold I found one on Broadway that I only pay for an hour and then I could keep my car there until 9 a.m. the next morning (a big win for me). So, I grabbed a drink at the Anchor Wine Bar and awaited Andrew and his girlfriend Cristina to return home.
Before I knew it, I was at their apartment, getting changed so we could head down to one of our collective favorite restaurants: The Grange. The cocktails are amazing, the food is superb, and the atmosphere is…well, it’s got that stripped down somewhat mechanical warehouse feel. Every restaurant feels like this nowadays, especially in New York. I don’t hate it, but it feels unoriginal at this point.
We all had an amazing time catching up. Andrew and I have known each other since freshman year of high school, meaning we’ve known each other for fifteen years. FIFTEEN (HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, BABBY). Even when we haven’t seen each other in a couple of years, we pick up like no time has passed. In addition to being one of my favorite people, Cristina is also one of my favorite people. What’s better than being friends with an amazing couple? Not much, especially when they help you catch up on all the episodes of “Steven Universe” you’ve missed on the trip so far. These people are the salt of the earth. And funny. They’re truly amazing and I adore them both.
Cristina was headed off for a trip with her friends to Puerto Rico in the morning, so we called it a night at a reasonable hour. My stay in New York was off to a phenomenal start and the best was yet to come.
Day 18 Stats:
Miles traveled: — 41 miles
Miles traveled so far: 4,162
States visited:
- Connecticut
- New York (again)
Two Month Weekend 