My inaugural visit to Chi-town became a food tour of epic proportions.
Day 9 – July 18
Waking up in Emily and Niamh’s apartment, I realized that it had been just over a week since I’d been in a “home” setting. No dues or fees to pay other than bringing beer and treating them a couple of times (because I love doing so) was required. Oskar and I planned out my stay here because, let’s face it, the workshop in Minneapolis took a lot out of me and I was truly stuck in the moment.
I knew I wanted to visit the Art Institute of Chicago (because art, duh) and Millennium Park, a gorgeous centerpiece to the city and the facilities for the city’s famed Lollapalooza music festival. I wasn’t ready for the Art Institute. My knowledge of it pretty much consists of this clip from Ferris Bueller’s Day Off:
Yeah, you know the one. Anyway, instead of spelling it out, here’s a slideshow of some of my favorite works at the museum. I was floored by the quality of the museum, it’s broad spectrum of works, and the overall ease of navigation. I’ll definitely be coming back.
You know I had to have a sincere moment in front of Seurat’s “A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte” and channel my inner Cameron Frye.
Adjacent to the Art Institute is Millennium Park and a very curious metallic bean-esque sculpture with a reflective surface that everyone loves taking pictures of. The work is actually called Cloud Gate and was created by an Indian-born British artist named Anish Kapoor (noted buttwad), who apparently hates that people call it “The Bean.” “The Bean” is quite an amazing art piece.
Millennium Park itself is gorgeous and calming to walk through. The gardens are gorgeous and a man made stream where you’re able to soak your feet flows through nearby. Plenty of people stop and nap in this incredibly peaceful area. If I hadn’t just consumed as ice coffee, I would have found myself doing the same.
Following a recommendation by Emily and Niamh, I headed to Wicker Park to check out some restaurants, Reckless Records (which features some very High Fidelity-esque vibes), Quimby’s Bookstore (an alt comics shop that is truly unique), and other fine boutiques. Upon discovering that Rick Bayless’ (the PBS host of Mexico: One Plate at a Time) restaurant XOCO was closed, I found myself at Harold’s (the Fried Chicken King of Chicago). This is apparently President Obama’s favorite fried chicken franchise in the country and, my goodness, does he have good taste. There’s nothing remarkable about the interior of this location. There’s very little bar seating on the sides, there’s a cook and a cashier, and the A/C is busted. It’s hot, everything reeks of fry oil, and I want it all. When I ordered, I thought I would be getting 1/4 of a chicken (dark meat) and a side of okra. It would be a 25 minute wait because everything was done fresh in house. Yes, I thought, this is what I want.
Apparently there was a misunderstanding on my part and I ended up with 1/2 a chicken (you bet it was dark meat), fries, white bread, fried okra, and plenty of hot sauce. I didn’t think I was that hungry, but apart from some fries and the bread, I delighted in this meal. Simple, amazingly delicious, and affordable, I cannot recommend Harold’s enough.
I went record shopping at Reckless and found some cool vintage girl groups from the sixties garage era as well as the new LP from Bat For Lashes. Emily met up with me after work and we headed to Quimby’s and Liquor Park Neighborhood Brewtique (like Wicker Park, get it?) for some shopping while we waited for Niamh to join us. We made our way to Pub Royale, an Indian-inspired pub, for some bar snacks and shandies made with Off Color Brewing’s Troublesome Gose and house limeade. The chai dolce de leche donut was unique and quite good. We headed over to Revel Bar, which seemed like a better take on the library/book-ish bar vibe that Minneapolis’ Library Bar, but it also turned out to be a bit of a letdown because the library section was closed during happy hour. The cocktails weren’t anything to write home about either. If a place is nearly empty at happy hour, it’s probably not the place to be. At least we saw this great C-3PObama street art on our walk from there to the car.
We headed back to the apartment, had some tortas from El Gallo Bravo (a nearby Mexican joint), and called it a night. (Actually, I did laundry for the first time this trip and it was heavenly, thank you for asking.)
Day 10 – July 19
I apparently needed a second morning to just chill out in the apartment, slowly planning my next move and gawking at the news from the RNC in Cleveland (don’t get me started).
Upon discovering that XOCO would be open, I made my way back over to Wicker Park to try out this highly recommended cuisine. I went overboard again (I’m sensing a lunchtime theme here) and ordered a cochinita pibil torta (slow roasted pork, pickled onions, black bean spread, habanero sauce) that was absolutely fantastic and a side of braised greens that were superb. Knowing that dessert would be equally as satisfying I procured an order of housemade churros served with a side of bean-to-dessert Mexican chocolate soft serve ice cream as well as a Cortado (espresso with warm milk).
I mosied around Wicker Park for a while longer and then offered to pick up Emily from work. From downtown, we headed out to find the Finch Beer Company. I’ve been looking forward to this for months since I’ve dubbed it my “namesake beer.” Sadly, we were directed to the brewpub/kitchen that wasn’t open until five and when we found the brewery operation itself, it was a plain building with an open door that led to an office and the brewing facilities wherein the employees encouraged me to visit the brewpub. Good times.
To remedy the situation and find ourselves somewhere cool to rest, we headed to Half Acre Beer Company. Their location was trendy and comfortable and the beer itself was fantastic. I tried an IPA with pure guava, a saison brewed with Motueka hops from New Zealand, a coconut IPA, and a double IPA. I don’t even know why I had all the IPAs (they’re definitely not my favorite), but these were their rare or collaborative brews and I didn’t go wrong at all. Each was unique, flavorful, and well-crafted.
Niamh agreed to meet us over at The Finch Kitchen (Finch Beer Brewpub) just as they opened. I was all too excited.
I should have held it in. The service and food are great here, but the beer was ho-hum, especially after imbibing Half Acre. There was nothing memorable to be found outside the names (Shards of Narsil shines as a great homage to Tolkien) and a Finnish style brew known as Sahti that is not often seen. I had two American IPAs that tasted nearly the same with no discernable differences or flavors. The best beer I tried was their Inanimate Object Belgian Rye Dubbel because the fig and burnt sugar flavors actually stood out. To sour my experience just a bit more, there was no merch to procure for my family (easy Christmas gifts, right??). They’ve even shut down their online merch store for some reason. I’m a bit disappointed in my namesake brewery. Maybe I expected to much. I doubt it. This was some of the least imaginative and just “okay” brews I’ve had on the trip. I hope Finch Beer Co. keeps on exploring and perfecting their craft; our name depends on it.
(Note: after the trip, the brewery offered to send me a t-shirt, which was very sweet…and comfortable.)
After a quick detour back to the apartment to watch Colbert’s coverage of the previous night at the RNC (absolutely delightful), we headed down to SIP, a cocktail and wine bar, for some snacks and, of course, cocktails. My eyes quickly located the Hanky Panky, a concoction I didn’t even believe was real because it was referenced in the second episode of Bob’s Burgers by a character (Teddy, the handyman) prattling on about how a bar had invented it. Well, it was a drink worthy of a bootlegger as it tasted like booze layered on liquor and topped with a light pour of hooch. Honestly, it was pretty good. It was a fine way to end the evening.
Day 11 – July 20
My final full day in Chicago began with a simple enough plan: walk to Wrigley Field, visit the aquarium or zoo, and hang out with friends. Spoiler alert: I did what I planned, but with so much more sweating than I thought would be involved.
Not being in-the-know about most things sports, I headed towards Wrigley Field, best known in my mind for three things:
1.) it’s where the Cubs play, duh
2.) Ferris Bueller went to a baseball game there on his day off
3.) It’s the address that Elwood Blues falsified on his driver’s license renewal paperwork
What better day to walk to this iconic Chicago landmark than on GAME DAY? The streets were filled with fans decked out in blue shirts that touted Cubs logos, players, or simply “Try Not To Suck” written in bold lettering. The stadium was a beautiful sight and I adored seeing so many fans roaming the area with a very positive outlook, but perhaps my favorite sighting was of an amazing Harry Caray statue. Again, not being from these parts, my Harry Caray knowledge extends to Will Ferrell’s delectable impersonation of him on SNL:
Seriously though, it was tempting to walk up to the ticket booth and head inside with the masses, but my goodness, it was far too sunny, humid, and hot for such ideas. So, I wandered a bit further past the stadium and came across a bar that flew a Texas flag, the Route 66 Gas N’ Grill. While I found out it was flown for a bartender who was out for the day, the owner was manning the bar and was a great guy. I snagged an incredibly messy but staggeringly good smoked Italian beef sandwich topped with house hot peppers and a side of macaroni and cheese. If you find yourself in the area, I highly recommend stopping in, even if it’s just for a refreshing Front Porch Punch made with peach whiskey.
Since I had already walked a mile to be where I was, I figured a little more walking couldn’t hurt. Well, after another two miles I knew I had definitely made the right decision.
While the walk was lovely, I can tell you from where I am now that due to humidity, heat, and being outside so much today, I didn’t stop sweating for 12 hours. New record? Unlikely, but it doesn’t feel great. That being said, the Lincoln Park Zoo was absolutely worth the three mile journey. To top off the amazing exhibitions and animal selection, it was free. Heck, I even got to see a lion, which is apparently a rarity, especially in the summertime. Let me tell you, dear readers, his bathroom time was majestic.
While I mostly took short videos of animals on Boomerang, I was really taken aback by the beautiful views of downtown Chicago from just south of the zoo. The city’s willingness to have so much nature be a part of the city itself is truly beautiful and necessary. It’s both a learning opportunity and a reminder of what we lose (but don’t have to) when we choose cities over rural living.
Emily met up with me and instead of instantly pursuing a bar or restaurant, we rode a bus back to her place to I could have a little while to recuperate and perform a much needed wardrobe change. After coordinating with Niamh and two of our SCAD cohorts, Soukprida and Jake, we took the L system over to The Drifter, a speakeasy found in the basement of The Green Door, a local bar.
After meeting up with Soukprida outside, she, Emily, and myself excitedly headed to the basement to open the “secret” door to the speakeasy, only to find that it was locked. After knocking we were informed that the bar had been bought out for a private party until 11 p.m. Since it was only 5:30, we knew our plans had to change. Niamh joined up with us and we headed towards Lost Lake, an excellent tiki bar located near the Logan Square and Avondale neighborhoods. Let me tell you friends, the staff were delightfully decked out in great island wear, the decor was cheesy and fitting, and the drinks were divine, each served in a unique glass depending on the beverage.
Once Jake met up with us and had his own drink, we decided to split a Fogcutter, originated by Trader Vic himself. Served in a giant shell container, the combination of gin, rum, cognac, and a few other choice ingredients, the Fogcutter was robust and tasty, with giant straws whipping out in every direction, urging you to take a sip. Between five of us, the drink disappeared fast.
Since the restaurant next door had burned down somewhat recently (as far as restaurant fires go) and the Korean snacks they served would only satiate us so much, we made way to Parson’s Chicken & Fish where, you guessed it, they specialize in fried chicken and fish. Additionally, they are also known for their frozen versions of a negroni, a dark & stormy, margaritas, and their take on “purple drank” (red wine, port, and orange blossom water). Having consumed the three of those choices (I can get a frozen margarita anywhere in this fine country), I can tell you that the dark & stormy reigns supreme, but all are worth having. I also partook of some hot fried chicken which, while not up to Nashville standards, was some pretty solid chicken. Another one of my friends, Lauren, joined up with us since she had just returned from a short trip to Indianapolis and lived a mere three minutes away from Parson’s. More good times were had.
Stories were shared. Memories reflected upon. Inappropriate jokes were made (repeatedly). This is part of what this trip is all about. It’s not just about exploring the country or finding myself, but about reconnecting with people I haven’t seen in years. I hadn’t seen anyone in this lot since 2009, but we all picked up as if very little has changed in our lives. Perhaps some of that is due to the fact that we all keep up with each other online, but I believe it’s simpler than this. We all get along for a reason. As long as that core doesn’t change, we’re going to continue to get along for quite a long time. I love these people, even if we only speak somewhat seldomly.
It’s at this point that I realize we didn’t take a photo together and that is a damn shame. Go me.
So, that about wraps it up for Chicago! The verdict: I want to come back here. There’s so much more to explore. It’s like a weird bizarro version of NYC that isn’t stuck up on fashion and isn’t so tightly packed into the geography as possible. I can drive here and I don’t hate it. The food is wonderful. The people are pretty kind. It’s still the midwest and from what I’ve seen so far, I adore the midwest. Chicago, you’re my kind of place. Stay awesome and true.
Next time: Indiana-bound and down.
Days 9-11 Stats:
Miles traveled: — (I’ll calculate how much I drove around in Chicago soon)
Miles traveled so far: 2,466
States visited:
- Illinois
- No, that’s it.
Two Month Weekend 